The Expedition to Swan River 1827

A Contemporary Account, published in The Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser in April 1827, of an Expedition to the Swan River.

We have been kindly informed by a Gentleman who accompanied the expedition, to whom we have been formerly under obligations, that the Success dropt anchor off the mouth of the River, on the 6th of March last. Almost immediately after, a party under the command of Captain Stirling, proceeded to examine the entrance and the adjoining bank. 

Fossilated rocks of lime, which formed the heads of the river, appeared to be the remains of immense beds of fossil rocks. On the south head, the soil was sandy and unpromising, but a great number of curious plants were found which could not fail to be interesting to the naturalist. Proceeding along the bank, the soil was gradually found to improve, and at the distance of half a mile, it was found to consist of a fine light loam, capable of producing garden and other light crops. 

About a mile from the entrance, though the season had been evidently dry, upon penetrating a little way into the soil it was found to be very moist. This  was occasioned by the vast number of springs with which the country was found to abound. The very trees furnished sufficient proofs of the abundance of moisture from their uniformly livid green appearance, whilst the vast abundance and astonishing luxuriance of herbaceous plants set the matter beyond a doubt. We have seen a thistle, which has been brought by our intelligent and indefatigable Colonial Botanist, Mr. Fraser, and he assures us, that he took it as a random specimen, which in length measures eleven feet and a half. 

Several moist spots were observed, which contained fresh water, and they appeared to be the channels for springs which issued from the various rocks that bounded them. There was also observed a spring about seven feet in width, which issued with great rapidity from a hollow rock. The water had a saline taste, but was found to be fresh at certain periods of the tide, that is to say, about 3 feet above low water mark. 

The soil on the north head was also supposed to be sandy, but at the distance of 200 yards it consisted of a rich loam, improving in quality as the party advanced. We are assured that the vallies [sic] were rich beyond every description, and capable of producing any crop, and of a similar character was the whole of the land for several miles, beyond which, as far as the eye could distinguish, there was no doubt entertained of the rich and fertile quality of the soil. 

The limestone, too, that was found to abound in patches here and there, renders the place highly adapted to the successful culture of the vine. Besides the land being in a manner destitute of timber, renders it fit for immediate cultivation. 

From the next point the country is diversified with hill and dale, magnificently clothed with trees of the richest green, the principal part of which were the eucalyptus. The beaches all along the river were found, upon examination, every where to contain fresh water in great abundance, so much so that scratching with the finger within two inches of the salt water it was found to be plentiful and of the best quality. The soil in this track approximates on its surface to the character of the sandy soil of Port Jackson, but on turning it up it was found to contain a considerable quantity of loam, and that too even on the tops of the highest hills. The valleys and head-lands abounded with the richest loam, and were clothed with the most luxuriant herbage. 

Further up, the flats were found to be composed of an alluvial deposit, but were evidently subject to floods, marks of which were observed five feet above the surface. The hills here were found to be exceedingly barren, though abounding with immense varieties of plants. 

A mile to the eastward, was observed an extensive lagoon of fresh water, the banks of which were covered with the most beautiful plants. In this sandy apparently barren track fresh water was found in abundance, and of the best quality, by digging about two feet deep. 

Proceeding up the river, the party observed a striking change in the character of the country. Five miles eastward of the creek, an extensive flat was seen on the left, consisting of a rich soil, resembling in its quality that for which the Hawkesbury is so famous, and covered with fine luxuriant grass, and the blue gum giving an air of romance to the scenery. From this point the country was found greatly to resemble, in every respect, that on the banks of all the rivers falling west of the Blue Mountains in New South Wales, varying on both banks into hilly points and extensive flats. The hills are covered with a fine red loam of great depth, and the flats with brown loam, and thinly studded with magnificent gum trees. 

On ascending the river, the flats seemed to increase in breadth, extending for many miles on each side, resembling, in a great measure, those on the banks of the Macquarie River to the westward of Wellington Valley, but superior as regards the soil. The marks of the highest floods did not appear to exceed two feet in height on the lowest flats, which, on farther inspection, were seen to extend to the base of the mountains, occasionally interspersed with stripes of good forest land, and covered with a profusion of plants. Considerable quantities of stringy bark were also observed, but none of the iron bark; however we have been assured that Mr. Fraser discovered a good substitute for it.

The view from the mountain was truly grand, while immense plains stretched as far as the eye could reach, and were bounded only by the horizon. In the course of their excursion the party observed but few of the natives, who manifested nothing either like fear or hostility. Large flocks of black swans were seen upon the river, and various other fowls and birds. We have before us a specimen of muriate of soda, which was kindly furnished us. Considerable quantities of this valuable article were found at Cape Naturalist.  There is also good reason to believe, from certain specimens which have arrived in the Colony, that there is abundance of copper to be found at Swan River. 

A curious shell fish, of a peculiar structure, has also been found in great abundance. From the geographical description and situation of the place there is little doubt but, at a future day, it will become an important British settlement. All agree in describing the land as being of the richest and most productive kind, and that it abounds with fresh water. There is another thing of considerable importance, we mean the length of the river. We understand the party sailed on it a distance of 60 miles. Water carriage is a great object to the settler, but we will endeavour, upon receiving a little more information respecting the discoveries of the party, which we have been promised, to point out other and highly important advantages that Swan River possesses, in order to make it distinguished as a colony.

View at Swan-River. Sketch of the Encampment of Matw. Curling Friend, Esqr., R.N., 1830
[coloured lithograph] Mrs Mary Ann Friend

Sources:

1. The Expedition to Swan River (1827, April 18). The Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1803 - 1842), p. 2.
2. View at Swan-River. Sketch of the Encampment of Matw. Curling Friend, Esqr., R.N., 1830 / [coloured lithograph] Mrs Mary Ann Friend; Courtesy: Dixson Library, State Library of New South Wales